A small single nave church from the 10th century with an annex (to the south) and a bell tower (to the west), Lagurka is located on a mountain peak opposite the village of Khe in the Kala community and represents the main shrine of Svaneti. To this day, on the feast day of St. Kvirike, people from all over Svaneti gather here.
According to tradition, Lagurka houses the entire treasure of the churches of the Kala community—various repoussé and painted icons, crosses, and objects donated over the centuries. One of the most notable relics preserved here is the so-called “Icon of Shaliani”—a 12th-century reliquary adorned with cloisonné enamel, repoussé decorations, and precious stones, a remarkable work of Byzantine craftsmanship.
Significant as well is the large altar cross, adorned with gilded silver and mounted on a stone pedestal, still preserved in its original location in front of the chancel. The church's interior is decorated with frescoes dating from 1112.
Lagurka is the second church in Svaneti to have been painted by the royal painter Tevdore during his time in the region. This is confirmed by an extensive donor inscription above the western door—now partially fragmented—which reads:
“In the name of God, this holy church of St. Kvirike was painted and adorned for the glory and worship of the nobles of this valley and all those who built this holy church. Holy Kvirike, glorify and have mercy on them all, amen. It was painted in the year 6620 (1112), in the indiction year 9, by the hand of Tevdore, the royal painter.”
Once again, the patron of the church's decoration was the entire community of the Kala valley.
The murals of the chancel and chancel-barrier show traces of later revisions or restorations. The reasons and the name of the benefactor are revealed in an Asomtavruli (early Georgian script) inscription on the southern pilaster, which reads:
“This church of St. Kvirike, when damaged by an earthquake, I, Giorgi, son of Anton, newly adorned. Whoever does not forget me, may God forgive them.”
Like Tevdore’s other works, the wall painting program in Lagurka is characterized by its laconic style, focused on the martyrdom scenes of the church’s patron, St. Kvirike, and his mother, St. Ivlita. Tevdore’s inclination toward dramatic intensity and emotional tension is especially evident in the depiction of St. Kvirike’s martyrdom, where the calm sternness of King Kar contrasts with the grief of the mother who mourns her slain child.
Notably, to fully convey St. Ivlita’s emotional turmoil, the artist includes not only visual means (her posture, facial expression, etc.) but also a special inscription expressing her gratitude to God. The accompanying inscriptions read:
“This is the martyrdom of St. Kvirike in the month of July. This unjust king cast St. Kvirike down from the throne.”
“St. Ivlita gives thanks to Christ our God, who fulfilled the martyrdom of her son, St. Kvirike.”
Equally powerful is the emotionally charged scene of St. Ivlita’s beheading.
Useful information
| Location | You can only reach Lagurka by foot. It takes 20 minutes through hilly forest terrain from the turn near the village of Khe off the main road. The beginning of the path is a short section of moderate difficulty. |
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| Key holder | The key is with Zaur Gulban. Prior arrangement is necessary. |
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